Southern Staples: Fried Green Tomatoes

With the iconic movie Fried Green Tomatoes drawing attention to the dish, it’s difficult to believe that the recipe wasn’t found in southern cookbooks prior to the 1970s. Fried green tomatoes were brought to the US by Jewish immigrants and became popular in the northeast and Midwest before Hollywood helped to define them as a Southern classic. While fried green tomatoes may not have originated in the south, we can’t argue with Southern Living magazine’s claim that, “It doesn’t get much more Southern than a plate of fried green tomatoes.”

The earliest mention of the dish can be found in the Chicago newspaper, The Daily Inter Ocean, in 1877. The article simply recommends them for breakfast and offers a recipe, saying “Cut a thin slice from top and bottom and throw them away, then cut the remainder in slices, roll in flour, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and fry brown in butter.”

While original recipes didn’t specify using red or green tomatoes in the dish, it is believed that green tomatoes were used to reduce wasted produce. In certain areas of the country, especially the Midwest, the first frost appears early and prevents tomatoes on the vine from ripening to a traditional red color. An 1888 Good Housekeeping column offered several recipes for using green tomatoes, one of which being seasoning them with salt and pepper and frying them in butter. The dish was consumed as a matter of practicality, but as home gardens dwindled in the later part of the 20th century, so did the dish.

In January 1992 the movie Fried Green Tomatoes, based on the novel “Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistle Stop Cafe” by Fannie Flagg, was released and helped to elevate the dish to iconic status. The novel and film take place in The Whistle Stop Café which is modeled after the Irondale Café located just outside of Birmingham. Since the 1930’s, the small “meat and three” restaurant has served deep fried green tomatoes.

Few Hollywood fads have proved to have lasting appeal, but fried green tomatoes seem to be more classic than trendy. The humble southern dish can paired with numerous regional ingredients to create appetizers, entrees and even breakfast dishes. The Irondale Café may serve their version with a remoulade dipping sauce, at 1885 Grill we fry them to a light golden brown and top them off with house made chow- chow and famous pimento cheese and serve them alongside a ramekin of spicy ranch dressing.

Here is an adaption of original Whistle Stop Café recipe:

Serves 8 to 10.

1 1/2 cups low- fat buttermilk
1 cup plain yellow cornmeal
½ cup self- rising flour
6 tablespoons masa harina
1 teaspoon salt
4- 6 tablespoons water
Vegetable oil, for frying
6- 8 large green tomatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick

In a medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, cornmeal, flours, and salt until smooth. Whisk in water 1 tablespoon at a time until mixture is the consistency of thin pancake batter.

In a Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of 1 inch, and heat over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 330 degrees.

Dip tomatoes in batter to coat, letting excess drip off. Fry tomatoes until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes, turning halfway through. Let drain on paper towels; sprinkle with additional salt while still warm. Serve immediately.